ON AUGUST NIGHTS LIKE THIS - OUR OWN VERSION OF "STAND BY ME"
YOU JUST DIDN'T VENTURE INTO THE GROVE AFTER DINNER. AT DUSK, YOU WOULD HAVE BEEN PUTTING YOURSELF IN GRAVE DANGER. THERE WAS A TOWN GANG THAT TOOK OVER, AND A TOLL HAD TO BE PAID, TO GET FROM OUR END OVER TO WOODCHESTER VILLA, WHEN THE BIRD FAMILY STILL OWNED THE PROPERTY. WE WERE WARNED THAT WE WOULD HAVE NO ACCESS TO THE LOWER SIDE OF THE GROVE, WHICH INCLUDED THE FRIGHTENING CURSE OF THE SEVEN TUNNELS. I DO KNOW THAT AT LEAST HALF OF THE CLAIMS WERE FICTION, BUT I WAS STOPPED SEVERAL TIMES, WHILE ON MY BIKE, AND TOLD TO GET OUT OF THE FOREST OR ELSE. THE HUNT'S HILL GANG WAS ALWAYS UP FOR A GAME OF BASEBALL, FOOTBALL OR ROAD HOCKEY, BUT WE WEREN'T PUGILISTS, SO WE PAID ATTENTION TO THE WARNINGS. GENERALLY, THEY STAYED ON THEIR SIDE OF THE GROVE AND WE STAYED ON OURS. THIS WAY WE NEVER DID COME TO BLOWS AND THEIR SECRET SOCIETY, IF THERE REALLY WAS ONE, MAINTAINED THEIR CONTROL OF THE PARK FOR MOST MY YOUTH GROWING UP IN THAT AREA OF BRACEBRIDGE FROM THE MID 1960'S TO EARLY 70'S.
IT WAS SAID, BY ONE OF OUR TRUSTED CRONIES, THAT HE HAD WITNESSED SOME WILD ORGY GOING ON IN THE AREA OF SEVEN TUNNELS, BUT WHEN WE WENT TO HAVE A LOOK, IT WAS JUST A MISTY MOOR ON A HOT SUMMER NIGHT. WE WEREN'T SURE WHAT AN ORGY WAS, BUT ONE OF THE LADS HAD A FEW SKIN MAGAZINES AND SAID, WHILE POINTING, THAT IT WAS LIKE THE PHOTOGRAPHS BUT WITH MANY MORE PEOPLE INVOLVED. WE DID A LOT OF ORGY HUNTING THAT YEAR, BUT NEVER EVEN SAW A BARE BEHIND. BUMMER.
ON EVENINGS LIKE THIS, WITH AN UNMISTAKABLE HARVEST SCENT, AND COOLNESS IN THE NIGHT AIR, WE USED TO TAKE TO OUR BIKES AND WHIP ALL OVER THE NEIGHBORHOOD, GETTING INTO MISCHIEF AS IF A MANDATED RULE OF CLUB MEMBERSHIP. LIKE THE FACT WE COULLD BE THROWN OUT FOR SOMETHING AS SIMPLE AS CRYING FROM AN ASPHALT SCRAPE. WE USED TO LOVE TOSSING GREEN APPLES AT THE TIN ROOVES ON ALICE AND FRONT STREETS, AND OF COURSE, "NICKY-NICKY-NINE-DOORS" WAS A CLASSIC PRANK, WHERE WE PARKED OUR BIKES, SENT SOMEONE TO RAP ON THE DOOR OF THE SUBJECT HOUSE, AND FLEE THE SCENE BEFORE GETTING CAUGHT. OUR ONLY NEAR MISS CAME WHEN ONE OF OUR GROUP HID BEHIND THE CAR IN THE PARKING LOT, AND THE GUY WAS SO MAD AT US, HE GOT IN THE VEHICLE AND STARTED TO BACK UP......WITH MY BUDDY DON LAYING BEHIND THE BACK WHEELS. WE YANKED HIM OUT IN TIME, BUT IT WAS A CLOSE CALL. THAT BUGGER CHASED US FOR AN HOUR UP AND DOWN THE STREETS OF CENTRAL HUNTS HILL. OF COURSE, I SHOULD NOTE, THAT HE HAD RECEIVED A BAG OF FLAMING DOG POOP THE WEEK BEFORE, AND ROTTEN TOMATOES BEFORE THIS. MY BIOGRAPHY IS ENTITLED, "I MIGHT HAVE SEEN AN ANGEL.....BUT I WASN'T ONE!"
WE WOULD TRESPASS IN BACKYARD GARDENS, SWIPE BUILDING SUPPLIES FROM ANYWHERE WE COULD FIND THEM, IN ORDER TO CONSTRUCT OUR FORT BEHIND THE WEBER APARTMENTS UP ON ALICE STREET, AND SOME TIMES WE EVEN GOT CAUGHT WITH ARM LOADS OF ILL-GOTTEN TWO BY FOURS. "HEY MISTER, WE THOUGHT YOU WERE THROWING THEM OUT," WE'D YELL. "THEY WERE ATTACHED TO MY HOUSE YOU LITTLE BASTARDS," WAS THE ANGRY RETORT. "HEY AREN'T YOU THE CURRIE KID," THEY'D YELL. "NO, MY NAME IS JIM NIVEN," I'D CALL BACK. "I LIVE ON RICHARD STREET," WHICH CERTAINLY EXPLAINED WHY JIM WAS ALWAYS GETTING BLAMED FOR WHAT I DID. I WAS A MASTER OF "FOBBING-OFF" AT A YOUNG AGE. MY BOYS TELL ME THAT I'M STILL KING AT THIS ART OF REDIRECTING RESPONSIBILITY TO SOMEONE ELSE. JUST ASK GRAVENHURST COUNCIL THAT ONE.
WE'D BE SWIMMING DOWN AT BASS ROCK FOR AWHILE, IF WE HAD BATHING SUITS OR NOT, AND COULD THEN, WITHIN MINUTES, BE FOUND HUDDLED ON THE VERANDAH OF LIL & CEC'S VARIETY STORE, ON TORONTO STREET, CRADLING COLD BOTTLES OF COKE, WITH BAGS OF CENT CANDY AND HOSTESS CHIPS. AND THEN CLIMBING TREES IN BAMFORD'S WOODS, IN THE LOW LIGHT, WHICH FRED BAMFORD ALLOWED, AS LONG AS WE DIDN'T KILL ANYTHING, INCLUDING OURSEVLES, IN THE PROCESS....OR HURT ANY WILD ANIMALS. FRED AND MARY BAMFORD OWNED THE WOODLEY PARK COTTAGES, ACROSS FROM OUR APARTMENT, AND OPERATED THEIR OWN CORNER STORE ON THE SAME BLOCK AS LIL & CEC'S. FRED WAS A FRIEND TO ALL WILD CREATURES, AND I ACTUALLY WITNESSED HIM, FEEDING THE BIRDS FROM HIS HAND, WITH A SQUIRREL ON HIS HEAD, AND A CHIPMUNK ON HIS ARM, WITH TWO SMALL BIRDS SITTING IN HIS OUTSTRETCHED HAND. SO WE WERE VERY RESPECTFUL OF THIS KINDLY MAN, AND HIS NOSTALGIC COTTAGE RESORT THAT WAS RIGHT OUT OF THE 1930'S, SURVIVING INTO THE 1960'S.
I CAN SO CLEARLY RECALL, AFTER ALL THE TOM FOOLERY OUT AND AROUND THE NEIGHBORHOOD, COMING BACK TO THE APARTMENT, AND STRETCHING OUT A COUPLE OF TOWELS ON THE FRONT LAWN TO LAY ON.......TO WATCH FOR UFO TRAFFIC THROUGH THE HEAVENS. THERE WOULD BE ONE LARGE CIRCLE OF ADULT TENANTS, ON ONE SIDE OF THE CENTRE WALK, TALKING ABOUT THE DAY'S EVENTS, ENJOYING THE COOL NIGHT AIR.......WITH US RAPSCALIONS ON THE OTHER SIDE, WRESTLING, TALKING ABOUT THE BALL GAMES COMING UP ON THE WEEKEND, AND ENJOYING THE COOLNESS AGAINST OUR BACKS, AND THE UNIVERSALITY OF THE EVENING. WE USED TO STRETCH OUR ARMS UP, AS IF SUPERMAN IN FLIGHT, AND PRETEND WE WERE NAVIGATING BETWEEN THE MOON AND THE STARS. IT WAS STRANGELY INVIGORATING.
MOST OF US KIDS IN THAT NEIGHBORHOOD WERE FROM AVERAGE INCOME FAMILIES.....AND A FEW POOR ONES, OF WHICH I WAS PROUDLY ONE OF THEM. WE DIDN'T HAVE A LOT OF SPENDING MONEY, BUT IF WE HUNG AROUND LONG ENOUGH, SOME OF THE ADULT ON THE OTHER SIDE OF THE LAWN, WOULD OFFER US THEIR EMPTHY POP BOTTLES, EVEN FROM THEIR APARTMENTS, AS A LITTLE TREAT ON A SUMMER NIGHT. THEY WERE DECENT PEOPLE IN THAT NEIGHBORHOOD AND ESPECIALLY THAT OLD THREE STORY APARTMENT OWNED BY HILDA AND WAYNE WEBER.....TO COLORFUL CHARACTERS WHO MADE LIFE SO INTERESTING UP ON ALICE STREET. WAYNE LOVED THE DRINK. HILDA USED TO CHASE HIM ALL OVER THE PLACE, TO STOP HIM.
I WAS A TRANSPLANTED CITY KID WHO DIDN'T EXPERIENCE MORE THAN A FEW DAYS OF HOMESICKNESS FOR BURLINGTON, ONTARIO, IN THE DAYS AFTER WE MOVED NORTH. I WAS SO EXCITED ABOUT LIVING IN THE COUNTRY.....EVEN IF ON A DAY TO DAY BASIS, IN REALITY, I WAS STILL LIVING IN AN URBAN ENVIRONMENT......REGARDLESS WHETHER IT WAS A SMALL TOWN. IT JUST FELT RIGHT FROM THE BEGINNING, AND RESTING OUT ON THAT CHILLED GRASS, LOOKING UP AT THE HEAVENS, I FELT MY FIRST TRUE SENSE OF LIBERATION, WHEN I REALLY DIDN'T UNDERSTAND ANYTHING ABOUT HAVING BEEN TITHED AND ENCUMBERED, IN THE FIRST PLACVE. I WAS JUST A KID. BUT I WAS FINDING OUT SOMETHING ABOUT MYSELF ON THESE SUMMER NIGHTS.......THAT SEEMED THE BEST FOR OPENING CHANNELS TO THE MYSTERIOUS BEYOND. MY CREATIVITY. THIS WAS MY INTRODUCTION TO HOW GOOD BEING UNFETTERED COULD FEEL.......AND IT WASN'T LONG BEFORE I WAS WRITING ESSAYS ABOUT THIS KIND OF THING, FOR MY GRADE FIVE AND SIX TEACHERS. I'VE ALWAYS WONDERED WHAT THEY THOUGHT ABOUT MY FUTURE.......WHETHER I WOULD BE AN ASTRONAUT OR A HOBO. MY BET IS THAT THEY THOUGHT I WOULD BE A DRIFTER WHO WOULD WRITE ABOUT THE EXPERIENCE, OF RIDING THE RAILS. THEY WEREN'T SO FAR WRONG. I'M STILL INCLINED TO RECLINE ON THE FRONT LAWN, LATE INTO THESE AUGUST EVENINGS, TO LISTEN TO THE LOONS, (AND THE PARTIES SOME OF MY NEIGHBORS THROW WITH GREAT REGULARITY), THE DISTANT TRAIN WHISTLES, AND BELLS AT THE CROSSING, AND OCCASIONALLY, THROW UP MY ARMS, AND REPEAT THAT SUPERMAN FLIGHT OF FANCY, WE USED TO PERFORM AS KIDS......AND IT'S SUCH AN ETHEREAL, AMAZING FEELING, TO SENSE THAT POSSIBILITY OF UNOBSTRUCTED FLIGHT THROUGH THE GALAXY WITH NO PERMISSION NEEDED.
THIS IS WHAT I FELT MUSKOKA HAD OFFERED ME.......IN THOSE EARLY YEARS. A SPARK TO MY IMAGINATION. AN OPEN DOOR TO EXPLORE. A COMFORTABLE, INSPIRING PLACE IN WHICH TO DWELL, AND A LAKELAND FULL OF THE ENCHANTMENTS A VOYEUR WANTS TO WITNESS. THIS IS WHY I COULD NEVER LEAVE THIS PLACE OF MY OWN ACCORD.....BECAUSE IT IS SYNONYMOUS WITH THE LIBERATION I AM HOPELESS, BUT LOVINGLY ADDICTED.
HERE IS A RECOLLECTION OF THESE UNCOMPLICATED, PASSIONATE EARLY DAYS, DISCOVERING THE NATURAL ASSETS OF THIS BEAUTIFUL PLACE ON EARTH.
I LIVED MY LIFE TO THE FULLEST.....AND ARGUABLY, I AM THE SAME TODAY, WHEN IT COMES TO MY APPRECIATE FOR THE DISTRICT THAT HAS GIVEN ME, AND MY FAMILY, SUCH A GOOD LIFE.
TRAINS, TRAIN STATIONS AND FREIGHT CARTS - THE DREAM ESCAPE FROM ORDINARY
I don’t know what it was about Bracebridge that made the train so much more intrusive in our daily lives. It must have been the Muskoka River valley and those wickedly cold winter nights, that made the train horn stab through the night air like a knife-blade. I lived up on what was, and is still called, Hunt’s Hill. The train station was located just to the north of the Hunts Hill bridge, and a stone’s throw from the old Albion Hotel......real old even by 1966. We used to get a kick out of sitting on an elevated parking border, adjacent to the tracks, and watching the drunks get tossed out the front door by the bouncer. It’s true what they say. The bouncer didn’t need to open the door with one arm, while tossing the patron out with the other. He wouldn’t use any arm to open the door because the unlucky boozer’s head would suffice. It was a two arm toss onto the cement at the doorway. I loved the view from there. One night I watched the same guy get tossed out three times. Each time, crashing head first into the door, with the warning, “And don’t come back ya bum!” That had to hurt. The head and the downtrodden’s feelings.
It was the 1960's. We had just arrived in town during the winter of 1966, in time to watch local lad, Roger Crozier, playing net for the Detroit Red Wings against Montreal, in that year’s Stanley Cup final. The Wings didn’t win but Roger was awarded the Conn Smythe Trophy as the playoff’s most valuable player. I liked the fact I was now from the same hometown as Roger Crozier. What a blessing it was then to one day actually work for Roger, as public relations director of the Muskoka Branch of the Crozier Foundation. I digress.
The hollow between two hillsides, along the river valley toward the Bracebridge Falls, did something to the sound of the train, such that for us, it seemed to be coming through the wall of our apartment. True enough there wasn’t much insulation in those walls. Outside, it was just crazy clear. Playing road hockey, on Alice Street, you’d half expect to see the locomotive light rising over the hill at the end of the street. The sound echoed and resonated all over the place and somehow joined back together as a stream of sound.....after all the respective vibrations must have bounced back off the architecture of Manitoba Street buildings. Even in the humid air of July nights, the arrival and departure of trains across three crossings, where the horn had to be sounded well in advance, became part of my life and times. I didn’t hate it. I was unsettled by it on occasion. Rather, it was kind of a respite for an over-active kid anyway, because I’d always pause to hear it cross the Toronto Street intersection with River Road. I always thought about where it was coming from, and where it might be was headed. It became an adventure in thought because in actuality we didn’t have much need for rail travel. We didn’t have any money for train trips either. Dreaming of a trip was cheap and I could still amble home in time for dinner. That kept my mother off my back. I was to be home from all my daydreams by five o’clock. No exceptions. A minute late and she suspected I’d been up to .....as she used to say....”NO GOOD!” I tried not to give her any excuse for an intervention. I was up to no good most of the time back then but we all were as mates. Fortunately the town clock tower was within my sight-line from the train station platform.
I have watched a number of television documentaries, and read many books, on the romance of trains and travel by rail.....one that particularly fascinated me was about an American photographer, who had opted to capture images of every remaining steam locomotive crossing the state. It was at the time when steam was being replaced by diesel engines.....and he felt it was critical to national heritage, to capture these remaining images of the old iron workhorses on their final runs. His originals are worth thousands of dollars each......but don’t expect to find many. They are fine art and nostalgia rolled up in one.
I missed the era of the steam engines by quite a margin. None the less I held a fascination about trains, partly because I believed they offered “the dreamer”......”.me,” the free right and privilege to board via imagination, and ride from one side of the country to the other...... having neither ticket nor timetable to return. Except being very aware when my mother Merle was bellowing about “Teddy it’s time to come home!” Or something like that but not so kindly. From so many different positions up on that Hunt’s Hill plateau, did I hear that train horn, and stop in my tracks to hear it pass. It seemed important, at the time, to do this. If you were a kid who daydreamed a lot, you will understand this. Even if I was on my bike, I’d stop for a moment, and judge whether it was possible or not, to make it to the edge of the hill in time, just to watch it cross the intersection. It was an picturesque scene as it passed by the multi-story backs of the Manitoba Street business community, and of course the old clock tower of the former federal building.
On lay-about Saturdays, the local Hunt’s Hill gang, of Rick Hillman, his brother Al, Don Clement and Jim Niven, would wind up at the train station, where we might......just possibly, engage the huge iron-wheeled freight cart that used to sit up on the elevated portion of the station. There was a wooden ramp with strips of wood across, which was supposed to slow the cart down when being pulled to track level by station staff. When we hung out there, I don’t think there was a full-time staff or station manager. We used to get into the lobby and just sit there, pretending we were passengers. I never remember seeing anybody tending the ticket counter. It was a sad and lonely place in those years. As for the freight cart, well, the cleats on the ramp only served to make the ride that much more exciting. We’d often jump aboard and the last one to park his behind on the top, had to get off and push us down the ramp. You want to talk about watching your life pass before you. I know it’s true. I didn’t hear that anecdote for years to come but when I did, (about an unrelated event), I thought about that freight cart. Jesus it almost killed us.
Most of the time we just found time to sit on the ramp, and wait for the arrival of the next train.....passenger or freight. While we thought about how neat it would be to jump on a boxcar for a trip north or south, each time we had the opportunity, we found a convenient excuse. “I’ll do it another day.....it’s almost dinner time.” If my mother even thought I’d been contemplating such a ridiculous adventure, she would have forbidden me to come anywhere near this old station. I couldn’t risk that. I had too much fun hanging out here to gamble on parental intervention.
I was a budding poet, even then, because while most of the kids my age, were looking at the mechanics of the belching, booming beast pulling the train, I was imagining adventures and thinking about all the places these incoming and outgoing trains had visited......and how much joy it would bring, to look out from those passenger car windows, and see the world as a blur.....yet feel as a traveller would, anticipating the final destination. It was a dreamer’s portal, that rickety station, and the day I found it had been torn down......was the day I lost faith in elected officials, to be the stewards of our heritage resources. The Bracebridge Train Station should have, and could have been saved, if there had been the slightest will, to allow the public the right to an opinion on the matter.
Even today, here at Birch Hollow, in Gravenhurst, I will stop on a walk down the lane on a bitter winter’s eve, to hear the crisp horn of a passing train. Curiously, only a short distance further away from our house, than it was up on Hunt’s Hill, during those halcyon days of adventure-seeking childhood. These days I’m not thinking about escape, or signing onto some great cross-country adventure. I’ve had my tours on the rails, and enjoyed each trip. Still, I feel a pang of sentiment and nostalgia when I think back to us lads, sitting on the rail platform, pondering how our lives would turn out in the future. The rail and train became symbolic for us, even though we wouldn’t have thought about it in those terms. I realize it now. It’s why I will still stop in my tracks, while walking the dog or raking the leaves, and sigh.....I suppose, about the good old days, when the train station was our second home, and the rails were the romance of adventure, and the freight cart......very nearly our undoing.
The day my mother died, I remember having to stop at that same rail crossing, adjacent to the Hunt’s Hill bridge, with a box of Merle’s belongings brought from The Pines nursing home, further up on Hunt’s Hill. How strangely poetic it was, as I thought back to all the times her voice resonated, like a train horn, to bring me home for supper. She had about a two block range. No kidding. For additional irony, on the last trip moving my father’s few remaining possessions, (after Ed’s death last year), from his apartment at Bass Rock (just below the tracks on River Road), I had to stop again for a passing freight train. When the train had passed, and waiting for the warning lights to stop, I could have sworn I saw him standing on the other side......winking at his kid one last time. He and I had stood at that intersection so many times, while walking home from grocery shopping at Lorne’s Marketeria. And we watched a lot of trains pass over the years.
Yup, the train and its rails have run through my life......and I’m good with that!
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